TRAVELOGUE:
THE QUIAPO EXPERIENCE Cap o Pas Cap (Game or no Game) In the Heart of Urbanity It was like a scene lifted from a Rizal novel. You are standing there, dumbfounded in the middle of the cobbled plaza, engulfed by a sea of combined devotees, hecklers and sweaty commuters oblivious of your existence. At twelve high noon, the rays reflecting from the marble finish of that omnipotent façade in front creates that golden hued, nostalgic, all-too-19th century vibes of the place. It makes you wonder when or how Crisostomo Ibarra or Kapitan Tyago would make an appearance. It is one of those mise-en-scenes that are all (geographically) chaotic, (naturally) orderly, innately ugly yet somehow transcendently attractive all at the same time. It makes you wonder if it is even remotely possible to be one thing and then another. But then again: you are there, motionless and transfixed, as the natural order of things – its daily routine- continues to work without your consent. And that is the hidden beauty of Quiapo, a breathing and living organism of its own. Quiapo is a tourism haven but a commuter’s nightmare.
Located along the stretch of Quezon Avenue boulevard and enveloped by R. Hidalgo to the south, the length of C.M. Recto to the north and almost as far as Rizal Avenue on its eastern edge. The urban districts of Avenida, Binondo, Sta Cruz and Escolta later emerged as outskirts of this economic center. This labyrinthine complex serves as the primary and well-recognized city square of the city of Manila. The Quiapo Church itself sits permanently in front of the historic Plaza Miranda Square. Accessible from all sides, this district of Manila can be reached through the jeepney routes from Caloocan in the North, buses and FX’s from Quezon City and another route from the South coming from Baclaran. Its strategic location makes it a notorious thoroughfare "funnel" that gathers and sorts almost the entire traffic of the city emanating from all directions. To say if this "accessibility" adds to the place's clamor, one can only argue. Before its present identity, this whole area of Manila used to be a swamp van - a then-growing fishing village thriving due mainly to its strategic location at the center of intersecting rivers, canals and smaller marshes that connects the north to trade and most of the southern villages.
The name Quiapo was a reference to a variety of water cabbage (Pistia stratiotes) – locally referred to as Kiapo – that grows abundantly in this side of the marsh. Now, Quaipo has established itself beyond its rural beginnings. Being the location of the recently promoted Basilica minore Quiapo Church (and thus the name), it is now at the forefront of Catholic christian devotion - a place that annually draws a literal sea of devotees. (more later.) Nonetheless, it is still a great contemporary place to fish. Though not for bass nor milkfish - but for great finds in bargains, wares, (mostly for Chinese products, lead and melamine included) and other stuff even shouldn't be writing about in fear of offending your sensitivities. (and we kid you not.) This long jump in purpose dates back as far back as the 16th century when Quiapo first turned from a poor, local fishing community into the center of commerce under the Colonization of Spain. In a time when the main modes of transportation were chiefly naval, such geographical feature made Quiapo a suitable site to establish trade and commerce, an open port and an easy entrance to the heart of Luzon. Theaters, vaudeville stages to early cinema houses, Arabies and flea markets sprouted one by one like mushrooms after the rain– catering (Surprisingly, THEN and NOW) to a spectrum of social classes from the proletariat, up to the Illustrados and way above to the elite and Nouveau riche. One important incident in the colorful history of Quiapo that sealed its deal as the “Old Downtown of Manila” was the permanent assignment of the revered Black Nazarene to its then ordinary and unimportant parish church. Brought by the Recollect Friars around 1600’s to its permanent residence, the image became the last catalyst in the proliferation and burgeoning of a once obscure part of old manila into what it is now. And how the rest – the extreme religious devotion verging on religious fanaticism, the commercialization of faith, the blurring of the thin line between religiosity and paganism, the booming of the market and the underground market alongside the commercialization of Quiapo itself – is not that hard to piece together. When January 9 comes, millions of Filipinos from all across the country flock to Quiapo to join the traditional translacion, the commemoration of the historic transfer and journey of the Black Nazarene to the Quiapo Church. Over the years, a great deal of Filipinos have developed a commitment to the charred statue – one so deep that it transcends beyond braving the horde of believers at the Plaza Miranda on January 9, or any other day or place. Filipinos have become passionate devotees of the Black Nazarene.
As a predominantly Catholic nation, Filipinos exhibit an extreme degree of fanaticism over religious figures such as the Black Nazarene. Here, let us trace how and why some of the Nazarene’s most avid believers lead a life anchored on the holy workings of a wooden replica. Devotees of the world-famous statue share what they pray for –from physical wellness, to academic excellence, to a stable love life– and why they vow to devote the rest of their lives to the Black Nazarene. CHRISTIANITY ISN'T THE ONLY RELIGION Not known to many, Quiapo is home to the largest Muslim community in Manila. While the Quiapo Church remains to be prime attraction here, the Mosque del Globo del Oro erected inside the Muslim Town proves to be of equal value. In this vlog, we trace the history and development of the Quiapo Muslim Town: from how it was intended to be a small settlement area for Maranaos who were driven out of Mindanao by Martial Law, until its transformation into a full-blown religious and commercial hub. Also, this exploration delivers a commentary on the Muslim people’s religious devotion from a Catholic standpoint, as well as the heavily tainted reputation of the Muslims in the Philippines and beyond. IN THE EYES OF A GREAT MAN Such deeply-rooted and extreme devotion has even landed the pages and thoughts of some literary classics. The grandeur and the magnanimity of a battering sea of devotees in maroon and yellow is inexplicable phenomena of faith that never fails to capture some literary greats and humanize the soul of the people. Even the Late Nick Joaquin came to the devotees’ defence in such blind devotion. An excerpt of Nick Joaquin’s commentary on Quiapo The Philippines is the second top producer and exporter of handicrafts in the world, next to India. Since the pre-colonial times, Filipinos have been deeply engrossed in the art of making crafts out of native materials. With over a million people involved in the handicrafts industry today, the Philippines exports woven products, wood carvings, and furniture made from local materials are exported to the United States, Canada, Australia, as well as some Asian countries. Perhaps the largest surviving handicrafts haven in the country is found in Quiapo. The ornaments section located under the Quezon Bridge consists of a series of stores selling handicrafts made mostly by different tribal communities in the South.
Blessie, long-time ornaments vendor in Quiapo, has witnessed the highs and lows of the Philippine handicrafts industry, which has resulted to ups and downs in her own life. After more than three decades of under the bridge, Blessie shares her inspiring story –a story that is shared by many other Filipinos who have devoted their lives to the preservation of our cultural heritage embedded in handicrafts. The local government of Manila’s efforts to ban cytotec, better known as abortion pills or “pamparegla,” proves to be futile. Even the Catholic Church, which has long been condemning artificial methods of birth control, cannot counter the proliferation of these illegal substances. Despite threatening banners donning the walls of the Quiapo Church, stalls selling “pamparegla” sprout like mushrooms around the Church, at Plaza Miranda, and even in the Lacson underpass market. A cytotec vendor who chose not to be identified says they are well aware of the risks but they cannot simply abandon the business, especially that they have a steady market. Married and teenage couples make up most of their buyers, she says, who purchase a bottle of “makabuhay” or “dahong mapait” for a cheap price of P30 to P50. A bottle of cytotec makes seven servings and lasts for a week. Most of the transactions around Quiapo start from subtle eye contact and whispered inquiries, according to the vendor. Business is liveliest on Fridays, the Quiapo Day, as multitudes of people visit the Church and the Nazarene. Reviving Old Quiapo
Long before its physical decline, Quiapo in its heyday housed some of the most beautiful and elegant streets in Old Manla. From the mid-19th century until the pre-WWII years, F.R. Hidalgo and Ariston Bautista Streets were the seats of sophisticated mansions owned by some of the most affluent families of Manila. One of the standouts during the olden times was the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista. Located at A. Bautista St., the house was owned by Dr. Ariston Bautista (after whom the street was named), a prominent physician-philantrophist, and his wife Petrona Nakpil in 1914. Arcadio Arellano designed the two-storey bahay-na-bato with details patterned after the Vienesse Secession style of the late 19th century. The couple lived in the grand residence home along with Petrona’s two brothers, Julio and Ramon, both closely associated with the Katipunan during the Spanish era. When Andres Bonifacio died, his wife, Gregoria de Jesus, married Julio and they also lived in Bahay Nakpil-Bautista. Heritage Street Project After almost a century, the house has now been transformed by its inheritors into a museum dedicated to the Revolution of 1896 and Gregoria de Jesus. The house is part of the Heritage Street Project, an attempt by the government and some non-profit organizations to preserve the old houses that played key roles in the history of Old Manila. Other historic structures under this project include the Boix House, located beside the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista; the Enriquez Mansion, former site of the University of the Philippines School of Fine Arts; the Ocampo Mansion, former site of the UP Conservatory of Music and home of Francisco Santiago, the composer of the Ave Maria; the Zamora House, owned by Manuel Zamora, inventor of the ‘tiki-tiki’ cure for beriberi; and the Ocampo Pagoda, a Spanish-Chinese-Japanese castle built by Don Jose Ocampo. The restoration and preservation efforts are initiated by the National Commision of Culture and the Arts (NCCA) and the Heritage Conservation Society (HCS). The youth arm of the HCS, which has around 70 members, is one of the more active divisions that forward this advocacy. Stephen [surname] and Rancho Arcilla, college students from the De La Salle University, have been actively organizing projects and events for this cause as heritage advocates since June 2012. “Our involvement started on the Internet,” says Stephen. “I enjoyed looking at photos of old houses and structures in Old Manila online, as I am a Philippine Studies major. Then I got more and more interested until I realized the importance of preserving these national treasures. So we decided to creata Facebook group, and from there it became big. People caught wind of it and started to support out cause.” Rancho explains that besides restoring the grand residences that made Quiapo known, their bigger goal is to change Quiapo’s notorious reputation. “We want to change the people’s general mindset about Quaipo,” he says. “We want them to see that there is a beautiful side to this place. You can’t undo what’s been done, of course, but we want it to blend the past with the modern times.” The HCS’s efforts are in line with the Republic Act 10066*, also known as the National Cultural Heritage Act of 2009, which states that: “Section 4.1. The State shall foster the preservation, enrichment, and dynamic evolution of a Filipino national culture based on the principle of unity in diversiy in a climate of free artistic and intellectual expression (Sec. 14, Sec, XIV Constitution).” They conduct activities such as sketchwalks, photowalks, and lectures on heritage conservation. “If you think of it, these activites do not have a direct positive effect on the project,” says Stephen. “But through these, we are helping raise awareness among people. And this awareness is what will pave the way for more concrete steps toward heritage conservation.” Kapit-Bahayan One of the major projects they are heading is the Kapit-Bahayan Project, which encourages people to work together for the betterment of their community. It is focused on Calle Bautista, where the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista and Boix Houses stand. “We are pushing for the adaptive reuse of these structures,” they explain. “We want them to be renovated and transformed into a more useful or relevant property –a museum, a school, a cafe, or a shop, anything– and not be demolished or neglected to rot.” The problem with Quaipo, they say, is that people are immediately put-off by its negative image. What the NCCA and the HCS aim to do is to make people realize that their is beauty left in Quiapo, and they are embedded in these architecturally significant structures. “These houses are silent witnesses to the past. Each one has a story to tell,” says Rancho. “With all this houses carrying the history and culture of the olden times, Quaipo is not a waste, after all.” Neutrality and ignorance While the Heritage Street Project and Kapit-Bahayan Project are continue to gain support from the Filipino public, the NCCA and the HCS say they could use more help, especially from the authorities. The local government of Manila under Mayor Alfredo Lim, according to the volunteers, are ignorant of the rules when it comes to demolition of architecturally significant and historic structures. “The government is neutral when it comes to these matters,” says Stephen. “They give more importance to education and medical assistance, which is not bad, but it is their job to give attention to these matters. After all, what was the law (RA 10066) enacted for?” With these challenges, Stephen and Rancho encourage the rest of the youth to take part in this advocacy. “It is not usual to see young people advocating for old things,” they say. “But it is fulfilling. As a student, you are going beyond the classroom setting. It feels good to know that you are able to do things, however little, to help your country. It builds patriotism. It makes you believe you can make a change even if you’re still a student, even if you’re young.” The Zamora House, located along F.R. Hidalgo Street, was the home of Dr. Manuel Zamora, the inventor of the tiki-tiki extract, cure for infantile beriberi. The European-style residence, which stood from the early 1900s, was one of the most elegant in Quiapo. Unfortunately, the house gradually disintegrated upon enduring a series of calamities and neglect by the owners after they moved. However, the foundation of the house is still intact as it was built with sod or adobe bricks. Presently, the house is a popular subject of study for architecture and engineering students because of its durability and unique structure. But apart from being an architectural fascination, the Zamora House is now nothing but a bare shell of what used to be a historically significant building. Unlike the other houses being restored under the Heritage Street Project, the Zamora House has not seen progress over the last couple of decades. In contrast with the other houses, such as the Bahay Nakpil-Bautista House which is located a few blocks away and well-maintained by the Heritage Conservation Society, the Zamora House is certainly on the farthest end of the spectrum. The residence currently serves as a mere warehouse where Dr. Zamora’s olden laboratory paraphernalia are stored. The sole inhabitant of the house is Leo Rosales, the caretaker, who have turned the house’s ground floor into a small tailoring shop. |